Siena Travel Guide: Medieval Tuscany at Its Most Complete

Siena is the best-preserved medieval city in Italy. Unlike Florence, which was rebuilt during the Renaissance and later, Siena’s centre has changed remarkably little since the 14th century — when it was a rival of Florence, Venice, and Genoa for commercial and artistic dominance. The plague of 1348 killed two-thirds of the population and effectively ended Siena’s expansion, which is why so much of it survives.

Piazza del Campo

The shell-shaped Piazza del Campo is one of the great public spaces in Europe — built in the 13th century, sloping, surrounded by medieval palaces, with the Palazzo Pubblico at the base. The Torre del Mangia (tower of the town hall) offers the best view of the city and the surrounding Tuscan hills. The square is the stage for the Palio twice a year.

The Palio

The Palio di Siena is a bareback horse race around Piazza del Campo held twice a year: July 2 and August 16. Seventeen city districts (contrade) compete; each is passionately loyal to its symbol (tortoise, she-wolf, panther, etc.) and takes the race with complete seriousness. The race itself lasts 90 seconds. The pageantry, the medieval costumes, and the weeks of preparation are the real experience. Viewing from the central standing area (the Campo) is free but intensely crowded; tickets for the bleachers are expensive and book far in advance.

The Duomo

Siena’s Cathedral (Santa Maria Assunta) is one of Italy’s most extraordinary Gothic churches — built in black and white marble, with a façade of extraordinary sculptural richness. The Piccolomini Library inside has Renaissance frescoes by Pinturicchio. The Battistero (Baptistery) below contains a baptismal font with reliefs by Donatello, Jacopo della Quercia, and Lorenzo Ghiberti. The Opera del Duomo museum across the square has Duccio’s Maestà altarpiece.

Day trips

Val d’Orcia (Pienza, Montalcino, Montepulciano) is accessible from Siena. Montalcino produces Brunello di Montalcino, one of Italy’s finest red wines.