Perugia Travel Guide: Umbria's Hilltop Capital

Perugia is the capital of Umbria — the landlocked region between Tuscany and Lazio — and one of Italy’s most dramatically situated cities. Built across several hills, its medieval centre is almost entirely car-free and connected by escalators and lifts from the lower town. The University for Foreigners (Università per Stranieri) has made it an international city by Umbrian standards; in summer it hosts Umbria Jazz, one of Europe’s best jazz festivals, and in October, Eurochocolate, the world’s largest chocolate festival.

The city

Corso Vannucci — The main pedestrian street, lined with palaces and cafes. It opens onto Piazza IV Novembre, which has the Fontana Maggiore (one of the finest medieval fountains in Italy) and the Cathedral of San Lorenzo.

Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria — The best collection of Umbrian painting, including major works by Pietro Perugino (Raphael’s teacher) and Pinturicchio. Located in the Palazzo dei Priori, one of the finest Gothic civic buildings in Italy.

Rocca Paolina — A 16th-century papal fortress built by Paul III, partially demolished after the unification of Italy. The subterranean medieval streets preserved beneath it are accessible via escalator and form a free, extraordinary underground walk through Perugia’s medieval fabric.

Umbrian food

Umbria produces excellent truffles (black truffles from Norcia, white from around Gubbio). Norcineria — the Umbrian tradition of cured pork products — is equally important: prosciutto, salami, and the preserved meats of Norcia are sold across the region. Umbrian olive oil is among Italy’s finest.

Day trips

Assisi (25 minutes by bus/train) and the Basilica of St. Francis. Norcia (90 minutes) for truffles and the earthquake-damaged town. Lake Trasimeno (30 minutes) for a beach day.