Things to Do at Lake Como: Villas, Villages, and the Alps

Lake Como (Lago di Como) is the most scenically dramatic of the Italian lakes — a deep, glacier-carved fjord reaching 410m below the surface, surrounded by steep mountains that rise to 2,000m and drop directly into the water. The combination of the lake, the mountains, the light, and the string of pastel-coloured villa towns along the shore has made it a destination for European aristocracy and, more recently, Hollywood since the 18th century.

Bellagio

Positioned at the tip of the promontory dividing the two southern branches of the Y-shaped lake, Bellagio has the most complete view of all three reaches of Lake Como. The ferry crossings from Bellagio to Varenna (east shore) and Menaggio (west shore) are 15 minutes and the most scenic short ferry trip in Italy.

The village is extremely popular and very small — the lanes, the waterfront promenade, and the villa gardens fill with tourists in July and August. Come in May–June or September–October. Villa Serbelloni (owned by the Rockefeller Foundation) has guided tours of the terraced gardens above the promontory; Villa Melzi d’Eril on the southern shore of the promontory has Japanese and English landscape garden sections and lakefront views.

Villa del Balbianello

On a forested promontory near Lenno (west shore), the 18th-century Villa del Balbianello is arguably the most beautifully sited villa in Italy — loggia and terraced gardens above the lake, reached by boat (direct from Lenno pier, 5 minutes) or a signed walk from Lenno. Used as a filming location for Star Wars: Attack of the Clones and the Bond film Casino Royale. The interior (Fondo Ambiente Italiano property) shows the extraordinary collecting taste of the last private owner, Guido Monzino (explorer and art collector). €25 entry including gardens and house; boat supplement.

Varenna

On the east shore, Varenna is smaller and less visitor-saturated than Bellagio. The Villa Monastero (lakeside gardens, €10) and Villa Cipressi (gardens with the best single lake view on the east shore, free) are the main sights. The Passeggiata degli Innamorati — a carved walkway along the lakefront between the two villas — is the most pleasant short walk on the lake.

Varenna train station is on the main Milan–Tirano line (see below), making it the most accessible village by rail.

Como town and Cernobbio

Como is the city at the south end of the western branch — a working town with a good Cathedral (Gothic/Renaissance facade, 15th-century) and the silk industry (Como produces 70% of European silk). Less visited than the lakeside resort villages but more genuine.

Cernobbio — 5km north of Como, home of the Villa d’Este hotel (the most famous and expensive hotel on the lake, €600–2,000+/night) and the Villa Erba complex.

The ferry network

All travel on Lake Como by water. The ferry operator is Navigazione Lago di Como. The main routes:

• Car ferry — crosses between Bellagio, Varenna, and Menaggio (15 minutes each leg, runs frequently)
• Slow boat (battello) — runs the full length of both branches, calling at every village
• Hydrofoil (aliscafo) — faster service connecting the main towns
• A day pass (€15–18) gives unlimited travel on all services

The ferries are essential — many lakeside villages have no direct road connection to each other.

Hiking above the lake

The scale of the mountains above the lake — up to 2,000m from lake level at 199m — makes hiking genuinely alpine. Key routes:

Greenway del Lago di Como — a 10km signed path between Colonno and Cadenabbia on the west shore, passing through olive groves and old mule tracks above the lake.

Rifugio Venini (Monte San Primo) — above Bellagio, a 3-hour ascent to 1,400m with views over all three branches of the lake and into Switzerland.

Practical notes

By train from Milan: 40–50 minutes to Como San Giovanni (Trenitalia) or Varenna-Esino (slower route). The fastest approach for the east shore (Varenna, Bellagio ferry) is the Lecco line from Milano Centrale to Varenna (1 hour).

July–August: The lake is extremely crowded; Bellagio traffic is gridlocked. Arrive by train and ferry.

Best time: May–June for wisteria and azaleas on the villa gardens, clear mountain views, and pre-peak crowds. September–October for autumn colours and lower prices.