What to Eat in Ferrara: Cappellacci, Salama da Sugo, and Este Court Cuisine

Ferrara has one of the most individual food identities in Emilia-Romagna — which is saying something in a region that produces Parmigiano-Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, and Lambrusco. The Este court was one of the first in Europe to codify fine dining, and the city’s culinary distinctiveness traces back to that Renaissance heritage.

What to Eat

Cappellacci di zucca — the most famous Ferrarese dish. Large, hat-shaped pasta filled with butternut squash, Parmigiano-Reggiano, nutmeg, and sometimes mustard fruit. Served with butter and sage or with a meat ragù. The squash filling is sweeter and more aromatic than anything in the pasta-with-meat tradition.

Salama da sugo — a heavily spiced cured pork sausage, aged for up to a year, then slowly braised in its casing for several hours. The result is a concentrated, almost liver-like intensity. Served in slices with mashed potato. Emphatically local — rarely found outside the Ferrara area.

Pasticcio di maccheroni — a sweet pasta pie with a shortcrust pastry casing, filled with béchamel, ragù, and chicken livers. A Renaissance dish that has survived largely intact. Found in Ferrara’s more traditional restaurants as a first course.

Pampepato — a dense, spiced cake made with dark chocolate, pepper, candied fruit, and almonds. The name references pepper (pepe), and the flavour is intense. A Christmas speciality but available year-round in Ferrarese pasticcerie.

Coppia Ferrarese — the local bread, shaped in a twisted cross. Made with olive oil and lard, with a crunchy crust and a chewy interior. IGP-protected — you’ll find it everywhere.

Anguilla del Delta — eel from the Po Delta, typically grilled or braised with vinegar and herbs. A product of the river and lagoon landscape around Ferrara and Comacchio. Comacchio (40 kilometres east) is the specialist destination for it.

Where to Eat

The historic centre around the Castello has a range of restaurants, though quality varies. The streets around the cathedral and the Via delle Volte (the medieval covered street) have better options than the main tourist piazze. The market on Piazza Travaglio has excellent local produce.