Matera Travel Guide: The Ancient Cave City of Basilicata

Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements on earth — people have lived in the cave dwellings (sassi) carved into the ravines here for at least 9,000 years. In 1993 the sassi were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site; by 2019, when Matera was European Capital of Culture, it had transformed from a byword for poverty (the Italian government forcibly relocated its cave-dwelling population in the 1950s) into one of Italy’s most compelling destinations.

The sassi

The city’s two main cave districts — Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano — are carved into the walls of a deep ravine (the Gravina) and built in tiers on the slopes above. Churches, homes, cisterns, and grain stores have been excavated from the tuff rock over millennia. Roughly 150 ancient rock churches (chiese rupestri) survive in and around the ravine, some with Byzantine frescoes.

The best way to explore is on foot. The view from Via Bruno Buozzi at the edge of the ravine gives the full panorama of the Sasso Caveoso. For the opposite perspective, cross the ravine to the Murgia plateau via the footbridge.

Staying in the sassi

Many of the cave dwellings have been converted into hotels and B&Bs — some of the most unusual accommodation in Italy. Staying in a cave hotel here (with electricity, plumbing, and usually excellent wifi) is genuinely worth doing.

Food

Basilicata is one of Italy’s least-known food regions. Crapiata (pulse and grain soup), maiale alla lucana (pork with local peppers), and the local Primitivo and Aglianico wines are the key local products.

Getting there

Matera has no train station connected to the national network. Access is by bus from Bari (90 minutes), or by the FAL regional railway line (Bari–Matera, change at Altamura).