Lecce Travel Guide: The Florence of the South

Lecce is the finest baroque city in Italy and the cultural capital of the Salento peninsula at the heel of the Italian boot. Built from pietra leccese — a soft, honey-coloured local limestone that carves with unusual precision — the churches and palaces of the historic centre are extraordinary for their sculptural elaboration. It is also one of the most affordable cities in Italy, with excellent food, a growing international presence, and access to some of the finest beaches in the country.

The baroque

Basilica di Santa Croce is the masterwork of Lecce baroque — a 150-year-long project (1549–1695) with a façade covered in carved floral decoration, grotesque figures, and symbolic animals. Piazza del Duomo is the most contained baroque ensemble: the Cathedral, the Bishop’s Palace, and the Seminary all in matching Leccese stone. Piazza Sant’Oronzo has the remains of a Roman amphitheatre partially excavated beneath it.

Food

Puglia has one of Italy’s most distinctive regional cuisines. Orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta, made by hand across the region) with cime di rapa (turnip tops) is the emblematic dish. Frisa (twice-baked bread ring soaked in water and topped with tomatoes, olive oil, and olives) is the street food. Pasticciotto — a pastry shell filled with custard cream — is Lecce’s signature pastry, eaten for breakfast. Puglia produces 40% of Italy’s olive oil; the local variety is grassy and peppery, excellent with everything.

Beaches

The Salento coast — both Adriatic (east) and Ionian (west) — has some of Italy’s clearest water. Porto Cesareo and Santa Maria di Leuca (the southernmost point of Italy) are accessible from Lecce. The Adriatic coast north of Otranto has dramatic karst cliff formations.

Getting there

Lecce is 90 minutes south of Bari by train or bus. Direct trains from Rome take around 5 hours.