Bologna Travel Guide: Italy's Food Capital and Student City

Bologna is the undisputed food capital of Italy — nicknamed La Grassa (the fat one) for the richness of its cuisine — and one of Europe’s great student cities. The University of Bologna, founded in 1088, is the oldest university in the Western world, and the 100,000-strong student population gives the city an energy and intellectual vitality that larger Italian cities often lack.

The old city

Bologna’s centro storico is compact and largely medieval, with two hallmarks: the porticoes (arcaded walkways that line the streets for 38km, keeping pedestrians dry in all weather, a UNESCO World Heritage feature since 2021) and the terracotta brick that gives the city its warm reddish colour — hence the nickname La Rossa (the red one, as well as a reference to its left-wing politics).

The Two Towers (Asinelli and Garisenda) are the symbols of the city. San Pietro’s tower is larger; Garisenda is the leaning one. Asinelli can be climbed for the best view over the rooftops. Piazza Maggiore is the social heart — the Basilica di San Petronio (one of the largest Gothic churches in the world, never completed) dominates one side.

Food

Bologna is where Italian food tradition is taken most seriously. Tagliatelle al ragù (not spaghetti bolognese — the local version uses egg tagliatelle and a slow-cooked meat sauce that bears little resemblance to what is exported abroad). Tortellini in brodo (stuffed pasta in broth). Mortadella (the original, from Bologna, has a completely different texture and flavour from the American bologna it inspired). Parmigiano-Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma are produced in the surrounding region.

The Quadrilatero market area (Via Clavature and surrounding streets) is the city’s best food market. The covered Mercato di Mezzo is excellent for lunch. For a full evening, the Via del Pratello area has the most authentic osterie.

Getting there

Bologna is Italy’s central railway hub — fast trains to Milan (35 min), Florence (35 min), Venice (90 min), and Rome (2 hours). It’s an easy addition to any northern Italy itinerary.